gestorben blog

The inspiration for their Spring 2012 Opening Ceremony collections, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim said yesterday at a preview breakfast, was music festivals, the kind that kids across America packed themselves into vans and traveled days to get to for epochal moments. (Leon revealed that He’d Been There™ for the first Lollapalooza, back in 1990.) The styles adopted for fests, the designers said, tended to be piecemeal and eclectic: random things begged, borrowed, or stolen, maybe something nabbed from a local souvenir shop along the way. (The tourist-y kitty cat T-shirt was morphed here into something sweet and twee: a group of cutout kitty babydoll dresses and a sheer top printed with cat’s eyes. It looked, if such a thing is possible, like an upscaled take on the poster for Broadway’s Cats.) The main objective, according to Leon: “Everything has to be packable.”

That was certainly true of a giant, wide-brimmed sun hat (available in that same cat print, among others) that folded up onto itself to fit into a tiny cloth purse. And it was true of raffia hats, cotton sweaters, and the biggest Japanese denim offering O.C. has yet proposed. That’s not to say there weren’t expensive treatments here, too, like the hand-done embroidery on day dresses or the hand-stitched leopard panels that tufted up on a mustard-colored sweatshirt and skirt.

Eclectic was the right word for the collection, which veered about as widely as your average three-day fest. Not a bad thing. And much of it did look throw-and-go, just as the duo had suggested. You can imagine they appreciate that as much as any of their customers. The newly appointed creative directors of Kenzo are now spending every other week in Paris, where they’ve just shown their first women’s collection, and are gearing up for their first men’s presentation in January.
—Matthew Schneier

Photo: Courtesy of Opening Ceremon

Fashion week presents a particular problem to any scheduler: When? “Fashion week’s so nuts,” designer Waris Ahluwalia admitted. “I didn’t have an open night.” So when he went to host an “intimate” (25—which turned into 45—person) dinner to celebrate his presentation at CIRCA’s Lincoln Center accessories lounge, he decided to bat cleanup, and invite friends to supper after the end of the week. It worked. Last night, CIRCA CEO Chris Del Gatto and Stephanie Winston Wolkoff hosted Johan Lindeberg, Scott Campbell, Veronica Webb, Sophie Théallet, Aaron Young, Terence Koh, Carlos Quirarte, and Ahluwalia’s mother, Darshan (”the guest of honor, always”) piled into Tiny’s in Tribeca for a last-minute dinner toasting House of Waris’ Spring jewelry and scarf collections. “A downtown celebration for an uptown exhibition,” he called it.

The collection being celebrated marks the second time that the House of Waris—known largely for its jewelry—has forayed into scarves. At a follow-up visit at his studio today, the designer explained that the two categories only seem different. They’re both, he reasoned, about keeping craftsmanship alive for a new generation—of craftspeople, as well as of customers. (The Rajastani embroiderers who work on his hand-loomed cashmere scarves now have their hands so full from his business that they’ve stopped working with any other.) This season sees a major uptick in the number of scarf designs offered, with many motifs carrying over from the jewelry collection. They range from the simple—a gorgeous plain taupe cashmere scarf with embroidered border—to the ornate, with chains picked out in contrast thread weaving their way over the whole. They have a richness—and a price tag—consistent with the hours of work they take to complete. But luckily for entry-level fans, batik-dyed cotton-silk scarves start at $300.
—Matthew Schneier

Photo: Patrick McMullan

Photo: Courtesy of Aiko

The sweatshirt enjoyed a new renaissance a few years back, when designers like Isabel Marant and Dries Van Noten rescued it from the bottom of the dresser drawer and sent the slubby staple marching down the runways. But they weren’t the only ones to revive the look. Inspired by her own favorite sweatshirt, Aiko designer Cynthia Mittweg built her entire label on tweaks and twists on the theme. After founding her line quietly in Spring 2010, Mittweg built up her presence in stores like Barneys Co-Op, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks, and Shopbop, all of which she counts among her stockists.

Like her inspiration, Norma Kamali, Mittweg focuses on affordable materials and casual chic. But she’s grown her line from a sweatshirt range into a full-scale contemporary collection, with knits, silks (newly introduced for Fall 2011), skins, fur, and more. (Not bad for a woman with no formal design training; Mittweg honed her chops designing her own pieces for the stage while fronting an experimental band, Ich Bin Aiko, the line’s namesake.) Sweatshirts still figure into the new Resort collection, but so do silk palazzo pants, sweaters knit with the names of vacations spots like St. Bart’s, ikat skirts, and pintucked sweaters. “I like to call her a beautiful mess—her house isn’t tidy,” the designer tells Style.com of the woman she has in mind. Her new model, social fixture Lily Kwong, may be more beautiful than messy, but the point stands.

—Kristin Studeman

—Matthew Schneier

French-born, Tokyo-based designer Julien David shows a full ready-to-wear collection during the Paris week, but his business began with the printed silk twill scarves that are still a major part of every one of his collections. (For his first runway show, he even used them to disguise the models’ faces.) David is a fabric obsessive to rate with the best of them, developing his own textiles with a mill in Ichinomiya, and accordingly the journey from silkworm to store shelf is a fascinating one. It’s that process that David and Philip Andelman (better known in some corners as the newlywed husband of Sarah from Colette) document in a new short film, debuting exclusively on Style.com. “We wanted to make a movie documenting the process and the different steps involved in the printing of our scarves,” David says. “We went to Yamagata and Kanagawa prefecture in Japan to shoot the movie during three days to try to film all the people who have been working on our scarves for the past four years.” (They’re spliced with footage of skateboarding moves, whose circular motions both inspired the designer’s work and mimic the printers’ motions.) It may take a village to raise a child, but it takes a prefecture to print your foulard.

Long sleeves with adjustable belted cuffs, notched collar, double-breasted button front with self-tie belt.

Xs-XXL

While luxe Burberry trenches are divine, as are coats from London Fog, I would rather have this one instead of investing.

Check out who in Hollywood rocks the trench trend.

These coats are perfect for cool summer nights and work well as a compliment to a little dress during the day. I also love that this never goes out of style. So, say hello to number 9!

I always look at trench coats like I’ve never seen that style of coat before. Perhaps it’s the pecan color or the style, but for whatever reason I own close to eight trenches. I saw this one at The Gap recently and could not take my eyes off it. I love the cut, the fabric, the color…and the price — $88 — is just right!

60% Cotton,

High-quality woven cotton trench coat with topstitching throughout, lined.

40% Nylon.

Purchase Information: Buy it here.

I can’t enough of trench coats. I don’t know what it is, but I can’t just walk past them when I’m shopping.

PRODUCT DETAILS On cooler summer days, our soft and lightweight trench coat is sure to take the chill off without weighing you down. In the fall, this iconic style is a wardrobe staple you’ll turn to on a daily basis.

$88.00

Dressed up with an LBD or down with boyfriend jeans and a cardigan, these flats are perfect for showing that girly yet practical side.

Ballerina slippers never go out of style. They’re so pretty and femme in a world of buckles and bondage. Not everyone is going to want to channel the King of Pop this Fall, so here’s a change.

I love the petal blush color and the contrasting grosgrain ribbon that’s slightly distressed and curled on these Urban Outfitters leather ballet flats. These flats come in two colors — champagne and black — and are only available online.

See other celeb-favored summer steals!

Purchase information: Buy it here.

Yaz Kurhan, better known as her nom de jewelry Yazbukey, is not one to hide her light under a bushel. For her “Fabulous African Saga” accessories and new home decor, Kurhan took over Tigersushi in Paris’ Marais neighborhood for a collection launch party with her likeminded friends, including stylists Catherine Baba and Elisa Nalin (above left, with Kurhan), Purple’s Caroline Gaimari, Lanvin’s Elie Top, Sarah Lerfel from Colette, and Michelle Harper, in town from New York for Couture week. Fancy friends, however, doesn’t make for a stuffy hostess: Kurhan comfortably installed herself on a throne made of plastic grocery-store crates (made for the occasion by Diplomates, the Paris art collective) and greeted her guests.

Kurhan chose Africa as the theme for her Fall collection, based on childhood memories growing up in Saudi Arabia. “My dad was part of the Turkish embassy there and he organized the Islamic conference for many years,” she said. “I remember playing with the children of all the African dignitaries at the conference, and although I’ve never visited Africa, I got a feeling for its diversity from that experience.” Kurhan, who divides her time between Paris and New York (where she dreams up accessories for Zac Posen’s Z Spoke line), continues to work in Plexiglas, creating flattened versions of everyday Africana, including flora, fauna, and everything in between. Case in point: There are tiger’s paw necklaces with scratch-mark traces, snake sunglasses, and banana hair pins—as well as a ghetto blaster bag. And for the first time, plastic wall decals join the wearable offerings, including a portrait of Naomi Campbell and a lion’s head.
—Rebecca Voight

Photo: Courtesy of Yazbukey

I love this one from the Lourdes Leon collection, which you can find via Material Girl at Macys. Its chic ($38!) and cheap and cheerful.

By Sasha Charnin Morrison for UsMagazine.com. To read more of the Recessionista blog, click here.

To get Olivia Palermo’s casual-cool style, try these tips. Mix with leopard printed scarves, bags, or shoes. Sequins work well with olive, as well. Dress it up with a slim skirt, belt the waist and add a pointy toe heel. Dressing down gets a feminine chiffon blouse or flowy top, jeans, leggings or shorts.

One of the must have items that seems to be on every editor and celebrity wish list this season is the military jacket.

PHOTOS: Kim’s sexiest Halloween costumes

The reality star wore a curve-hugging Alaia chart with sheer panels and accessorized with several sparkly bangles and oversized diamond earrings.

Then they headed to Marquee Nightclub inside The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, where Kim and her group sat at a VIP table surrounded by a packed house.

Kardashian connected her mother Kris Jenner, sister Khloe and her husband Lamar Odom and Kim’s friend (and former Dancing with the Stars associate) Mark Ballas in Sin City. See extra pics from Kim’s birthday bash.

“Tonight was so much amusement!!! Yummy meal at Lavo then amusement night at Marquee! Thanks to everyone who came out! Now jetting back to LA!” Kim tweeted early Sunday.

First, the group sat because a rapid supper at LAVO, where they ate on a spread of the Italian restaurant’s specialties.

NEWS: Kim’s best neatness and pulchritude lessons

PHOTOS: Kim’s hottest white dresses

Kim Kardashian has been showing off her noted diagram in a diversity of sexy white clothes for annuals, so it was only fitting namely she chose to rock her favorite color at her 31st birthday party in Las Vegas on Saturday.

It’s party season! Here’s a clothe that can assist keep you dance till dawn!

I love the color, the style — anything almost this popular satin stunner is someone that ambition turn definitely corner heads. (Even the price, at $79.50, will cause pate turning!) It does come in black, yet why not make a statement in a ferocious fuschia, deep green, red lacquer, blue violet or regal blue.

The Sexy Satin Tube Dress fits favor a mitt, has pockets and looks as wealthy as the luxe strapless dresses we’ve penetrated recently, like the Carolina Herrera frock aboard Renee Zellweger or Marchesa designer Georgina Chapman in her own line or even Carla Gugino in a Georges Chakra Couture strapless satin number.

Statement necklaces could work here because some surplus gleam. If thats not your sack, chandelier earrings and a few bangles could be beautiful. A thin alternatively broad belt in dark velvet or patent works for well as a thin snakeskin belt as waist elucidation. I would dress a nude pump or a strappy sandal with this look. With namely, you’re agreeable to work.

PRODUCT DETAILS
Sleek and glimmering satin namely sexier in a hits-at-the-thigh width and strapless, skin-baring appropriate.

- Synthetic/Spandex
- Strapless with back zip
- Pleated at the waist
- On-seam pockets
- Thigh length
- Machine Washable
- Imported
- Available in sizes 0 to 12

Buy it here.